Wit and Whittier

Iconic Alaska in a day trip—we started in Anchorage, packed six wiggly kids into the car, and headed down the Seward Highway. We traced the coast along Turnagain Arm, which is a body of water branching off the Cook Inlet, which connects Anchorage to the Gulf of Alaska, which is of course in the Northern Pacific Ocean.

We kept our eyes trained on the water, hoping to see beluga whales as we passed beluga point. We passed a rockslide where Hannah once saw a bear ambling along. No bears today. No moose or dall sheep either. Possibly some belugas, but nothing definitive. Later we spotted a bald eagle. We trotted up to Byron Glacier, then proceeded to the very small town of Whittier on the Prince William Sound.

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To get to Whittier, you have to wait for the tunnel to open in your direction and it costs $13 for a regular car. When the tunnel is free from trains and oncoming traffic, it’s go time. Clouds kept floating over the mountain, and once we were through the tunnel it was clear why—totally different weather. Low, misty, clouds, a bit of rain. Very atmospheric. The harbor is charming in an “edge of the world” way.

Here are some interesting facts about Whittier: The military blasted the tunnel through the mountain to its secret base during the Cold War. Today, 97 percent of the town is owned by Alaska Railroad. All of its 300-ish residents live in one of two buildings—no private homes. It’s a deep water port and has a hopping fishing and seasonal tourism trade.

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Hannah and I had scoped out a hike but the most recent reviews said bears were plentiful and not shy. With six tasty bear snacks in tow, we decided to skip it. Plus the kids were hiked out after the glacier, so instead we got coffee and ice cream at the Lazy Otter on the harbor, picked salmonberries and admired waterfalls and the river, played with some local kids at the playground, and packed everyone back into the car for the trip home.

You might think this is the end of an Iconic Alaska day—it is not!! For dinner Justin smoked salmon his coworker caught this weekend and we had it alongside Hannah’s famous homemade rustic bread with a side salad. And of course, a Sockeye Red IPA from Midnight Sun Brewery. The perfect ending!