Austria on Monday

Eloise convinced us all to forgo the oatmeal I brought for breakfast in the room and indulge in the hotel’s breakfast buffet. Isaac picked a seat.

“Hi Isaac!” Isaac’s friend Eli, who moved away last summer, was seated at the next table.

As they chatted, the mountains outside the windows disappeared behind lowering clouds and sleet which soon gusted into a snowstorm. Cozy time for breakfast, with flurries swirling around and cup after cup of steaming hot tea. But unfortunately, it caused the lift to close for the day, even though the sky cleared a few hours later.

Although disappointed, we had a backup plan—spend the afternoon in Austria! A jaw-dropping drive through the German and Austrian alps brought us to Innsbruck, where we immediately stopped for coffee and pastries. These were above-average delicious. Chris got a cinnamon roll, Eloise got a muffin, Isaac got a cream-filled donut. My donut hole thing had a tasty blueberry filling. It was perfect. I switched to tea in the morning but Austria does such a fine coffee and pastry that I couldn’t resist. My heart was still racing at midnight. Worth it!

While Chris was looking at some cowbells and the kids lobbied to buy stuffed animals, I got a family pass to go up the old city watch tower, or Stadtturm. This was nine euros and included a trip to the pay loo, which we were all happy about. The views around the city were windy and spectacular—Alps all around, the river and Hofkirche nearby, the old central area spread out just below.

We took a right at the gold-roofed balcony (built over 500 years ago for Emperor Maximilian I and his second wife) to go over to Hofkirche, or Court Church, built to house Maximilian’s impressive funerary accoutrements. This includes 28 life-sized metal statues of people meaningful to the emperor, like his beloved first and neglected second wife (he had a stand in at their wedding!! Literally did not attend!! Met her later!!!), Ferdinand and Isabella of Spain, and Johanna, who was married to Phillip the Handsome—I thought this guy’s nickname was made up when I heard about him in Ghent’s Gravensteen Castle tour but that’s really how he was known! Their love story is the subject of that excellent castle’s very funny audio guide. This tie to Flanders was surprising to me.

Our final stop in Innsbruck was 20 minutes away at the Swarovski Kristallwelton, or Crystal Museum. This was dazzling and very fun—snow indoors! Stand inside a gem dome! Mirrored illusions! Crystals everywhere! Nicole Kidman’s costume from Moulin Rouge! An enchanted forest! A five-story play structure! Eloise has wanted to go here since Jenn told me about it a year or two ago. We loved it. The boys tried to make it make sense so they enjoyed it but felt confused. Sad!

I could have spent more time here shopping for sparkly things in the gift shop but the night was drawing toward us with gray clouds full of snow. We drove back to Garmisch through silent mountains quiet with snow and darkness. It made me shiver a little in my spine to think of all the people living up here for hundreds or thousands of years, fighting back wolves and hunger and cold though the winter with nothing but their farmhouses and fire and each other (Shudder). We made it back to the present day (and the hotel) safely.