• Skip to primary navigation
  • Skip to main content
  • Skip to primary sidebar
  • Home
  • Mari Krueger
  • Featured Clips
  • Photography
  • Chris Writes, Too

Passport Diaries

Where Globe-Trotting meets Beach-Combing

December 21, 2009 Hakone

Hakone, Check! …point

You’re back in time a few hundred years. Your husband is a political hostage thanks to his opponents’ ability to control you and your family’s movements outside the city, so any attempt to flee means repercussions—probably death—for him, but he won’t leave without you. The overlords become more tyrannical year by year until you can’t bear it any more…you use all the money for your youngest child’s education to buy falsified passports, and carefully pack up just the most irreplaceable of seven generations of belongings—anything more would arouse suspicion. You wake the children early and tell them to dress quickly. They have no idea that soon you will either be imprisoned….or free. Either way, this is the last time they’ll ever see home. After days of travel through the lower mountains you approach the checkpoint, take a deep breath, and compose your face as you’re corralled into the crowded waiting area. When it’s your turn to be inspected, your courage falters for a moment as you pass through a room lined with rifles and longbows. Is this how the story ends?

Now, where are you? Are you in Bavaria, trying to flee south through the Roman checkpoint on the highway at Ehrenberg? Are you in Spain, making a run for Gibraltar for passage to England? Keep going! You’re in 17th Century Japan, and that angry-looking official is following instructions to “keep guns out and women in.” The Tokugawa Shogunate government established the Hakone Sekisho (checkpoint) to control the population between 1619 and 1869. Women and children wanted to leave Edo (old Tokyo) for Kyoto, but the government had better control over their husbands if they stayed. Travel on Lake Ashi was forbidden, and a lookout tower above the checkpoint on the mountain ensured obedience. Dark times for travelers throughout Japan! Yikes! Well we did in fact cross Lake Ashi by boat…in fact, we sailed on a mock-up of a pirate boat. Just like the sightseeing boat around the 99 Islands in Sasebo. What’s with that exactly!? Betweent the dock and the checkpoint we had lunch of curry rice (Chris) and curry udon (me), followed by red bean and tasteless jello and fruit dessert and a Viennese ko-hee. The coolest part of the checkpoint was this tiny museum that had shogunate-era passports (with written descriptions of each traveler and the express reason for their need to cross through), medieval punishments for people found unworthy, samurai suits, old money, drawings of the original buildings and other pertinent things from the era.

Categories: Hakone

Previous Post: « Oh Come Let Us Adore Him
Next Post: Mt. Fuji Tea Party »

Reader Interactions

Related Posts

  • Out and About 
  • Sands of Time
  • Shenandoah (do dooo do do do)
  • Good Morning Sasebo

Comments

  1. Rachel says

    December 22, 2009 at 2:38 pm

    Very cool… well not in 17TH century Japan but today it seems like a fascinating place. I think you could seriously write books with the opening of this blog!

    P.s. Your eye makeup looks fierce! Love it!

Primary Sidebar

Welcome to Passport Diaries! I'm a freelance reporter, Navy wife, and mom to two fun kids. Join us on our adventures and general mayhem!
More about me →

Passport Diaries Insta

#yokosukairisgarden #yokosuka #iris #japanesegarde #yokosukairisgarden #yokosuka #iris #japanesegardens #irisseason #japanlife #passportdiaries
New chawan unboxing!! I looooooove it!! #urasenke New chawan unboxing!! I looooooove it!! #urasenke #kyotoartisan #teabowl #chawan #matcha #japanlife #passportdiaries #teaperson
#daitokuji temple is important in #urasenke histor #daitokuji temple is important in #urasenke history and I couldn’t wait to visit! #teatrip #teapilgrimage #kyoto #shinkansen #weekendtrip #japanlife #matcha #passportdiaries
#tokyobay #maborikaigan #maborikaiganboardwalk #yo #tokyobay #maborikaigan #maborikaiganboardwalk #yokohamaskyline #sunset #japanlife #yokosuka #passportdiaries
Work trip to the windward side and back! Work trip to the windward side and back!
We brought baby Isaac home to our place five house We brought baby Isaac home to our place five houses down from the Road of a Thousand Blossoms. This year we took both kids #hikichigawa #cherryblossoms #sakura #japanlife #passportdiaries
#nightbloom #sakura #yokosukabase #cherryblossom # #nightbloom #sakura #yokosukabase #cherryblossom #japanlife #passportdiaries
#hashirimizu #yokosuka #maborikaigon #sakura #cher #hashirimizu #yokosuka #maborikaigon #sakura #cherryblossom #tokyobay #japanlife #passportdiaries
#fujiten #fujitensnowresort #fuji #skiing #springb #fujiten #fujitensnowresort #fuji #skiing #springbreak2024 #endofseason #slush #japanlife #passportdiaries
#sarushima #yokosuka #tokyobay #maborikaigon #sh60 #sarushima #yokosuka #tokyobay #maborikaigon #sh60seahawk #springbreak2024 #japanlife #passportdiaries
#yokosukabase #yokosuka #navalhelicopter #tokyobay #yokosukabase #yokosuka #navalhelicopter #tokyobay #japanlife #passportdiaries
#kalikacafe #butterchicken #seasidecafe #miura #ur #kalikacafe #butterchicken #seasidecafe #miura #uragachannel #seasidejapan #japancoast #springbreak2024 #japanlife #passportdiaries
#chineseteaceremony #oolong #whitetea #teatasting #chineseteaceremony #oolong #whitetea #teatasting #kamakura #japanlife #passportdiaries
#yokosuka #tokyobay #stormfront #herecomestherain #yokosuka #tokyobay #stormfront #herecomestherain #wegotrainedon #springshowers #maborikaigan #japanlife #passportdiaries
#indigo #indigodye #yokosuka #artistvillage #yokos #indigo #indigodye #yokosuka #artistvillage #yokosukaartvalleyhiraku #yokosuka_trip #japanlife #passportdiaries
#maborikaigan #highseas #yokosuka #tokyobay #japan #maborikaigan #highseas #yokosuka #tokyobay #japanlife #passportdiaries
The view from #yokosukabase is the same activity f The view from #yokosukabase is the same activity from a different perspective #yokosuka #tokyobay #sailaway #flyaway #navalhelicopter #japanlife #passportdiaries
#sunset #maborikaiganboardwalk #yokosuka #tokyobay #sunset #maborikaiganboardwalk #yokosuka #tokyobay #flyaway #sailaway #eveningwalk #japanlife #passportdiaries
#maborikaigon #seaside #japanlife #passportdiaries #maborikaigon #seaside #japanlife #passportdiaries
#maborikaiganboardwalk #fujisan #maborikaigon #tok #maborikaiganboardwalk #fujisan #maborikaigon #tokyobay #sunset #nathanevans
Follow on Instagram

Follow by Email

check the box at the bottom of any post

Passport Diaries © 2008 - 2025 · All Rights Reserved

Copyright © 2025 · Cookd Pro Theme on Genesis Framework · WordPress · Log in