“Is Ho Chi Minh City still called ‘Saigon’?” I ask. Tring smiled hesitantly. “People here—we like to hear it,” she said. “On forms we have to write Ho Chi Minh City, but everyone says Saigon.” “Saigon is colorful and crowded and loud. People are everywhere—on plastic stools and chairs sipping Vietnam’s excellent coffee, squatting by…
